Day 58: Fort Chasers Inc.

Accra - Today Brandi and I woke at the Sanaa Lodge in Cape Coast and took our breakfast before leaving for the Cape Coast Cultural Center.  They have many different things there at various times but today we saw an art exhibit featuring the work of art students from a local college.  After leaving the center we drove around the campus of the University of Cape Coast.  Then we started chasing colonial forts.  We saw both Fort Victoria and Fort William in Cape Coast before leaving town.  Victoria is visible around town but no less difficult to access.  While Cape Coast Castle sees hundreds of visitors each day, few venture up to Fort Victoria.  It's a small fort northwest of the castle and built to serve as an early warning of invasion by hostile forces, particularly the Dutch.  We parked at the Mighty Victory Hotel and hired a guide to take us up some high, steep steps to the fort.  We were advised visiting the fort can be dangerous without a guide and sure enough when we arrived at the top we found a man described only as a "hoodlum" by our guide who protected us.  He said if the man had tried anything he would have "sacked" him.  This from a small, older man who was very confident in the face of a larger, younger man who seemed to be living in the fort.  The fort had four cannon, one pointing in each cardinal direction and two rooms for captives.  A rusty ladder was the only way up to the main platform.

Fort William is larger than Fort Victoria and is today used as a lighthouse.  It was, however, in colonial days another early warning and defense point for the British held up in Cape Coast Castle.  We parked on a very steep street which led up the hill and then, having chock blocked our truck, walked up to the fort.  We were greeted by a friendly young man and boy who gave us a tour and only asked for a donation.  They were happy with ¢5 each.  Back down the hill, we stopped by the washroom at the castle before driving next door to Victoria Park where we saw both the bust of Queen Victoria and the town square.  Satisfied at that point we had seen as much of Cape Coast as our schedule would allow, we left town on the Coast Road and drove east toward Anomabu, Kromantse, and Saltpond.  At Saltpond we took a roadside picture of Fort Amsterdam.  Brandi was afraid to go up because it would have required us having to pass through a congested village and the guidebook warned us that the fort is open but not organized for tours.  Hawkers, beggars, and thieves sent us on down the road.  Fort Amsterdam, nonetheless, dates to 1631 and was the first fort built by the British on the Gold Coast.  The slaves held in Fort Amsterdam, sold mainly to Caribbeann plantations, became known as Cormantins, because of the nearby village of Kormantse.  The name travelled with them across the Atlantic.  Louis Armstrong traced his family tree back to Fort Amsterdam.

Past Mankessim, we took the road to Apam, looking for Fort Patience.  A short drive off the main road brought us to the cozy village of Apam.  We drove through town and them came to the base of the hill upon which we saw Fort Patience.  The road was narrow, rocky, filled with ruts and potholes.  Brandi emphatically commanded me to park the truck so we could walk up to the fort.  I however took this as a challenge of my driving abilities and with the four wheel drive Isuzu in my hands, I crept up the rising path.  No problem.  And at the top we found six Virginia students who had walked up.  We also found the local guide who, for ¢15, showed us around.  His English was extremely limited, however, so we mostly guided ourselves.  Everytime I asked him a question he said, "Yes" even if the question was not a yes or no question.  This fort is also known as Fort Leydsaamsheid.  It was built by the Dutch in 1697 and captured by the British in 1782.  It was returned to the Dutch in 1785 but handed back to the British in 1868.  Now it serves as a resthouse.  You can actually spend the night in this one even though Brandi said, "Not for a million dollars."  Fort Patience is the smallest fort in Ghana still standing.  Mostly likely never used to house slaves, the most impressive thing about this fort is its location.  From the fort we took fantastic photos of the town of Apam and the coastline in that area.  Lots of fishermen.

Finally, we intended to visit Fort Good Hope before returning to Accra but once we came to Kokrobite we realized we had missed the turn.  It was too far and there was too much traffic to go back.  This is the last fort built by the Dutch on the Ghana coast.  Built in 1704, it was expanded in 1724 for use in the slave trade.  It was handed over to the British in 1868 and was in ruins by 1957 when Ghana gained their independence.

Back in Accra by 4:15, Adeline and Gifty were outside to welcome us home.  There were eight souls here for dinner: baked chicken, mashed potatoes, green beans, salad, pineapple, and sweet ice tea.  Ummm.

Brandi's breakfast at the Sanaa Lodge in Cape Coast: Scrambled eggs with vegetables and toast.

Entrance to the University of Cape Coast.  As I stood to take this picture, the ocean was at my back.

Our Fort Victoria guide Henry at Fort Victoria in Cape Coast

For William

The Catholic Church of Cape Coast from Fort William

Our guide Godfrey at Fort William

Bust of Queen Victoria in Victoria Park, Cape Coast

Fort Amsterdam near Saltpond with football pitch in the foreground.

Brandi at Fort Patience with fishermen of Apam in the background.

Entrance to Fort Patience

Methodist Church of Apam with fisherman statue in the foreground.  The photo leaning up against the base of the statue is a representation of photos which are common all over Ghana.  When a loved one dies, Ghanaians print their picture poster size and place it all around the area where the person lived.  This notifies friends and family of the death but also assures the person will be remembered.  Brandi says you know you're getting old when your family has you dress up for a formal solo picture.